The author is restoring their 2002 Ford Excursion, which has a Medium Flint interior color and a light grey dash and instrument cluster. They are looking for the right leather dye for their car or truck by identifying the interior trim code. The 2005 Ford Excursion paint cross-reference provides all the colors for each specific model year.
The interior trim code is usually above the 5-digit “XXX-XX” paint code. To find the right leather dye, locate and identify the interior trim codes on CarsDirect. The Hide-Away 40″ LCD HDTV in the 33A galley provides extra counter top space when hidden in the “up” position.
To remove the big plastic covers that run down the sides of the cargo/third seat area of the interior, use plastic primer to bond it. The part number for the center panel, which is the same color of the instrument cluster, is 4c4z-7004302-HC.
Ford Excursion touch up paint can help fix paint scratches on your vehicle. Oxford White (color code: YZ/Z1) and Pueblo Gold Metallic (color code: Pumpo Gold Metallic) are available for exterior paint. The trim color code is usually abbreviated as “INT” for interior trim or “TR” for trim on the vehicle.
The actual code for the interior trim is G3 Pueblo Gold accent, although Arizona Beige is very close. On the gen 3 models, it’s now G3 Pueblo Gold. Black Underhood Paint’s specially formulated acrylic lacquer restores the finish of brackets, core supports, heater boxes, and all underhood components.
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We show you how to paint interior plastic, vinyl, and leather. The center console in our 2003 Shop Truck build was in rough shape, …
Where is the paint code on a Ford Excursion?
In order to ascertain the requisite Ford touch-up paint part number, it is first necessary to identify the paint code on the vehicle doorjamb label. The code for the exterior paint is labeled as “EXT PNT,” followed by two characters. One may refer to the number on the Motorcraft® Chemicals and Lubricants Quick Reference Charts. In the case of vehicles of an older vintage, the number in question may comprise more than two characters. The requisite paint part number can be located on the doorjamb label.
Where do I find my Ford color code?
Ford color codes are easy to find on the driver’s door jamb and consist of two digits, which can be numbers or letters. The example provided is “PM” which corresponds to Bright Calypso Metallic Clearcoat. However, pre 1970 Fords can be problematic as they used to call different paint colors the exact same name, resulting in different color codes and different paint colors. To find your Ford color and paint code, refer to the typical Ford color ID tag.
What are Fords colors?
The 2024 Ford Edge® is a vibrant vehicle that offers a range of colors to suit your personal style. Choose from Agate Black Metallic, Atlas Blue Metallic, Burgundy Velvet Metallic Tinted Clearcoat, Carbonized Gray Metallic, Forged Green Metallic, Iconic Silver Metallic, Oxford White, and Rapid Red Metallic Tinted Clearcoat. Each color is designed with depth and complexity, making it an extension of your personality and a companion for every journey.
The 2024 Ford Edge® is available in several colors, with some options subject to additional costs based on the trim level selected. The 2024 Ford Edge® is designed to captivate and inspire, making it an essential addition to any vehicle’s collection. Explore the Ford Edge® Overview for more information on its capabilities, technology, comfort features, and trim levels.
What colors were Model A Fords?
The 1930-1931 Open Model A factory data production paint colors include Kewanee Green, Elkpoint Green, Apple Green, Cube Drab, Coca Drab, Tacoma Cream, Alusite Blue, and Aurora Red. The 1930 Standard Phaeton and the 1931 Standard Phaeton are available for purchase at varying price points. The 1930 Deluxe Phaeton is offered at a cost of $625, while the 1931 Deluxe Phaeton is available for $580.
How do I find the color code for my semi truck?
The paint code for a given vehicle is typically located on the driver’s side door or jamb. In the case of Chevrolet and GMC trucks, the paint code label can be found within the glove compartment. In order to ascertain the paint code for one’s truck, it is necessary to locate the label on the driver’s side door or the driver’s side door jamb.
What is the color code for Ford H2?
The text describes a brand-new, unused, undamaged, and unopened FORD KA FLAME RED PAINT CODE H2 AEROSOL SPRAY CAN, listed as “New” and “F2 F0 Ff_1 F11” in the seller’s description, and is available for purchase with confidence.
What are eatons colors?
The Eaton logomark is identifiable in three distinct colors: The color range includes Eaton Blue, Eaton Black, and Eaton Gray.
Is my paint code in my VIN number?
The paint code of a vehicle is typically indicated on the information sticker affixed to the door frame. This is in contrast to the vehicle’s VIN, which may be found on a door jamb or glove box.
How do I find my Ford paint color code?
Ford cars have paint codes on metal plates or stickers located around the bodywork, such as the floor or boot lid, door jamb or frame, suspension mount, inner wing, or front/slam panel. In the UK, paint codes are displayed as color names, but often use both. When ordering from PaintNuts, they can use either the paint code or the name to mix your exact color touch up paint. Popular Ford color codes can be found using the links provided, without needing the exact code.
What is the paint code for Ford Dark Side Metallic?
Before ordering paint, ensure your Ford’s color code is ‘BT’. The color code is crucial for ensuring paint color accuracy. The color code plate is usually found on the drivers door jamb and typically consists of two characters (‘UA’ and ‘YN’). The additional code after ‘/’ can be ‘UA/M6373’. It’s important not to order based on the color you see onscreen, as computer and phone screens may differ. For more information, refer to the FAQ’s.
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Great tutorial – thank you! It’s great to see someone teach the importance of putting on so many light layers because if you don’t, as has already been said, the paint will not stick and eventually it will stay to bubble up and peel. I’m saying this for people who haven’t done this yet and have watched other articles with guys putting on 2-3 heavy coats.
Over the years, I have found that prep is super important!!! I strongly recommend SEM aerosol & ADHESION PROMOTER!!!! I have jobs/ favors done 10-15 years ago that are still looking like new, and zero fading or edge peel!!! My 94 toyota 4×4 needed an interior part replaced, but I couldn’t find grey part. So I bought a blue used piece,and sprayed with Presidio SEM… 19 Years ago….. Part still looks new!! I haven’t used any sem or duplicolor on carpet yet…. But I bet it would work…. My 2¢ worth😎
Nice work! I done my whole interior paneling in a black from grey on a 05′ Blazer 4×4 Red 3M scratch pads And degreaser If you spray vents Make sure you move them around with each layer added Tip for carpets …Always do a light coat ..Let dry, Use a brush And Brush the carpet left right up down ..The idea is You want loose flowing carpet And not glued together rock hard carpet ..Each coat repeat I done 4 coats to mine ..Never know i was there
Did half of my cars upper interior 3 years ago, came back to give a little advice & update on it. Well it’s still in good condition. Highly recommend not using those autozone cleaners to clean the parts you painted when it gets dusty from experience it gets faded and the color under starts to show if you rub to hard. ” I usually just touch it up again and it looks fine ” other than that this stuff is amazing. Even after years of sun exposure it’s still yet to crack or chip, no fade or any major problems.
I used this stuff religiously,the black spray works great with those other panels,also works really good on carpet.made the interior of a old beater 1992 4×4 splash ranger look brand new.The only thing is when spraying commonly touch areas like arm rest or door trim where you rest your arm you HAVE to prime it,other wise in about 3-4 months it will start to crack and peel. Scuff,clean,scuff,acitone,prime,LIGHT scuff,And about 5-6 “dusting”coats of top paint
I thought that turned out really well, and a nice colour into the bargain . It just so happens, i painted part of my rv dash, a couple of weeks back, after i converted the radio aperture from single to double din . I’ve not got a hope in hell, of matching the original finish, so i’ve decided to Hydro-dip with a wood grain . The panel is sitting in the garage, painted in a suitable base colour, ready for the final film . Unfortunately this has being delayed, due to the supplier running out of the film, i’m gonna use . As for the black panels, i use a plastic refinisher, which i believe is American in origin . It’s meant for bumpers, but i’ve painted pretty much painted, all the faded plastic under the hood . The finish is excellent . Little postscript here, the colour used to paint this dash, is the same colour as my carpet in the rv .
Did this on a car before even seeing this article. Very light coats is certainly key when painting these, especially the plastic parts around the ashtrays that might have coatings on them (certainly test paint those first). Did mine in grey and black, the ashtray needed to be sanded with fine grain paper to get some kind of coating off the plastic, paint caused the coating to disintegrate. Couldn’t get some of the burns or stains cleaned out of some of the darker plastics but the paint hides them to the point nobody would ever notice. I used a light grey and dark grey satin paint and it came out great. But very light coats is for sure the key to getting a nice even coat without runs, bubbles or dust spots…
I’ve used this stuff on vinyl for years. A while ago, I was getting my house ready to sell and doing painting in the basement. Well, my buddy stepped in the paint tray that was sitting on the stairs. Cheap peppered black and white carpet, but it looked like hell with white paint spilled all over. So I get a bright idea and run to the auto parts store and get me 2 cans of black vinyl and carpet paint. It worked great, carpet still has the plush feel (except where the real paint was) I’d definitely try it on a ratty old carpet that needs help.
Great job! I did a total interior color change on a gmc Sierra slt years ago. It had an ugly blue interior and I changed it to a beige. I did basically the same thing you did in this article. I took the entire interior out and dismantled everything before I re dyed it. I did outsource the upholstery as I went with new leather for the seats though. It all came out amazing! I loved and had that truck for years until I sold it to help buy a new one.
While you had it apart hitting the grey or black parts with a heat gun would have brought the color right back. Just have to keep the heat gun moving a little slower that if you are painting it keep in mind, the color on those items go all the way through and it comes right back, then you can put protectant on it to keep it that way, 303 Protectant works great and provides UV protection as well.
Before you replace or paint the black bits, try to bring a rich black tone back with a hand torch with light passes to re-establish the oils in the plastics. The LED window on the rear thermo reading will be challenging not to warp, so that panel may nee dto be treated differently. Try the backside of one of the black panels first to get a feel for the technique.
Thanks for the insightful tips on clean and prep. Good info on cleaning the tip of the spray can nozzle, I’m sure that apply to guns as well. My 97 Dodge Ram dash assembly failed from Florida Heat and poor abs plastic formulation. Not only was the dash top cover cracked and brittle but also the dash sub core assembly. I found a sub core assembly on EBay that was not brittle. So I prepped the backside of the plastic with 2 part epoxy resin and fine weave fiberglass cloth. You clean with acetone and then use an 80 grit abrasive sandpaper to open up the pores of the abs plastic, clean again with acetone, let set to for at least an hour ( it’s warm in S Florida) to allow the acetone to throughly dry, then do a bonding layer of 2 part epoxy. Shortly thereafter ( still tacky) followed by a layer of cloth and more epoxy to saturate the cloth. It was very time consuming, but it should not crack again 🙏🏻 and it feels very sturdy. I am now going to use the Duplicolor factory matched mist gray to color the dash. You can find the interior trim color on the door panel ID sticker. I talked to Duplicolor and unfortunately that trim color was not available in the spray can, but they sent me the formulation and directed me to a Duplicolor paint shop that could mix it. It was expensive, like $54 for a pint. I’m getting ready to paint it this week and appreciate the prep and application tips. Thanks
Spray looks great used it on a few of my cars, just be careful it will scratch and you will have to paint it again specially on plastic, used black on my headliner came out great but I wear ball caps and it would leave white marks everytime my brim hit the paint, had to touch it up several times, just a tip
To improve the black plastic milking use a heat gun on a low setting in a fast swirl pattern until the milk starts to dis appear. This takes some practice, patience and cool down time between second and third go over to avoid over heating melting the plastic or worse burning it. Higher ridges and prominent parts will heat more rapidly than flat areas. Lower corners and crevasses won’t respond to a large heat gun so switching to a finer nozzle air weld gun will do the trick.
Pro Tip for can spraying; Use a hair dryer or something to continually keep the spray can warm. As the paint is used the pressure and temperature inside the can falls rapidly. The reduce pressure increases the partial size coming out of the can nozzle. This in turn gives poor coverage and more chance of paint runs. To avoid this pre warm the can and continue to warm it between the coats but extreme care not to overheat the can or you may find you paint yourself and your work shop very quickly.
I did this to some rear plastic bumper guards that sit on top of the Chrome rear bumper for of a 2006 Nissan Frontier. Ohh My, what a damn difference it made. I was also able to do the long plastic piece that sits over the Wipers know as the “Cowl” I swear painting these plastic faded pieces bought back that frontier to a whole “New” Level. Great Demo and Step By Step. Thanks for sharing :o)
1. remove all pieces to be painted 2. wash with dish soap & water 3. wipe down with acetone 4. paint with very light coats, with increasingly more paint per coat (be careful, do 5 to 7 coats or more if needed) 5. reassemble pieces also: the prep in this article was good, however you can also sand down plastic pieces and then use primer to achieve a flat surface again. also also: to protect the paint, use clearcoat, it will also make for a glossier finish in most cases. if you want a more matte tone, get spray paints that match that, including color coat and clear coat
Nice work TJ…🏁 19:40… McGuire makes a good black plastic rejuvenation liquid…Eastwood has a fantastic black plastic interior paint that would make it look brand new.. Powder laundry detergent is the best cleaner for this stuff… then go back with alcahol or acetone to wipe free of containments….imo
I would have taken the time to tape off and paint the black parts. It still looks so much better though! Why have i never thought about wiping the nozzle off between coats? Admittedly, i havent spray painted many things in my life, but I’m definitely filing that one away in the ole memory bank for when i need to!
Bringing my derelict 95 Cavalier back to life for its upcoming 30th birthday spent most of the last month painting the floorpans with chassis saver and cleaning all the hornets nests out of the body. The gas tank was a massive nest so I had to replace it just now getting new interior in from a 97 model. Does Duplicolor work on carpet as well?
Really wish duplicolor sold this by the quart for paint gun use. Then you could add a hardener for a stronger finish. Thought about removing some from an aerosol can and playing around with different types of hardener to see if it helped. Awesome job btw! Maybe try a heat gun on the black parts to bring back the color.
Instead of Acetone, can you use Isopropyl Alcohol before painting? If not, what else is recommended that is not too harsh on plastic? Also, if you have damage to the vinyl or plastic due to age or exposure (dry rot, etc) is there some type of filler you can use to repair the surface before painting? Thank you
Question: I have water stains on my ’14 Ford Fusion headliner due to a leaky sunroof, (which has been fixed). It’s not all that bad, but while discussing how to correct this with a couple of body shop guys, they were clueless and warned me against trying to scrub the stains out with soap and water. I’ve noticed that Duplicolor makes a paint just for this, but I’m worried about how close the tint will match. Your thoughts about doing this safely?
If you want to bring back those faded Black Plastic parts use a 60/40 mixture of Penetrol & Boiled Linseed oil which will re-emulsify the plastic and return it to like new. Just like all plastics on cars the UV sun light caused the oils in the plastics to come to the surface and evaporate & Oxidize causing the discoloration. That mixture will help the oil to leach back into the Plastic.
Just curious I had to remove the fabric from my headliner, I’m wondering if that paint would work on the bare headliner It seems to be a sort of a foam-like material I’m not exactly sure what it is It’s a 2005 Dodge Grand caravan headliner I’d really like to try to get out of taking it out and having it covered with fabric I don’t think I want to spend that kind of money on a 2005 vehicle I’m worried that certain types of paint might eat away at that type of material
Have they fixed this stuff? I used this stuff like 17 years ago to paint the stock dash in my cavalier that was a soft textured vinyl and it turned it into a softer sticky mess that you could touch and leave finger prints in. It was still that way 2 years later when the car was wrecked and hauled off.
Save some time. See the grime on the center console? No kidding I found by mistake, use hand sanitizer then soap and water. One day II was waiting for someone in my car and was looking at the tan interior of my solara and I had some wipes (during the pandemic) so I started wiping. Then those started to dry out so I used some hand sanitizer and It took almost all the grime out of the padded vinyl. I was shoilcked at how well it did. I swear my armrests were just as bad as the arn rest in this article.
You will find yourself repeating this process over and over if you do not use an adhesion promoter or a clear coat to seal the paint. Also, you will NEVER be able to scrub/clean painted interior parts like the oem plastic parts. That paint will come off. Do this to flip a car and or on parts that get no traffic. Your best bet is to grab a replacement from the salvage yard.
Should have run some screws in those holes on the bottom through back and wrapped wire around them and had it suspended in the air so you can walk around painting without touching…because using those gloves i know damn well when you grabbed it the glove was coming in contact with atleast an 1/8 of an inch up the panel wherever your palm hit.. But her Lil sand paper another quick shot…i like to take a torch and just go over the outside not touching the paint with the flame,just letting it ride over it about 2 inches away from it moving quickly..5 mins later hit again…repeat….
You had the time to pull the console out disassemble it entirely,wash it and paint but you couldn’t take 10 minutes to paint the trim compones blacks so they would look good with the repaint of the rest of the console it just seems Un necessarily lazy to do half the job when everything is ones again already disassembled and easy to paint.