How To Finish A Wood Stripped Canoe Without Fiberglass?

Ignoring maintenance of varnish or urethane on a bright finished boat can ruin the epoxy or polyester resin that the fiberglass is applied with. To build a usable strip canoe without fiberglassing the inside, use ribs like a wood canvas canoe, most likely more than using glass cloth. The fix is usually to cut them out and re-skin the bad spots with new fiberglass. However, this may be inconvenient.

To finish a cedar strip canoe, start by sanding the boat down completely to create a smooth surface for the finish to adhere to. Next, apply a primer to the outside of the boat. Roll a couple more coats of clear epoxy on a few subtle low spots, let it cure, long board it, and apply a coat of two-part polyurethane clear.

If you strip or sand the exterior, you would need to re-glass it. Some of the finish has blistered and flaked off, and it appears to have had additional pieces of fiberglass cloth applied in one area to make a repair. As the resin soaks into the fiberglass, the cloth turns completely transparent. Put three coats on, waiting three hours between each coat. After it cures, sand it to an even finish (orbital 60g-120g, wet sand).

If the canoe is covered with a clear coating of fiberglass and epoxy, the easiest way to remove it is to use a hot-air gun and a putty knife. Buy epoxy and wood for gunwales and keel, then reattach the seats using new, longer screws and fiberglass cloth. Remove as much as possible without tearing up the epoxy or glass. They all should cure just fine. Light sand if the old finish is still intact.

How do you waterproof a wooden canoe?

• Epoxy Resin: Epoxy resin is a versatile and widely used material in boatbuilding. It provides a strong, durable, and waterproof bond between wood surfaces. By saturating the wood fibers with epoxy resin, boatbuilders create a protective barrier that prevents moisture from penetrating the wood. Epoxy can be applied to both the interior and exterior of a boat, making it a popular choice for waterproofing.
• Varnishes and Sealants: High-quality marine varnishes and sealants are designed to protect wood from moisture, UV radiation, and other environmental factors. These products form a clear, flexible layer that enhances the wood’s natural beauty while providing a reliable shield against water.
• Paints: Specially formulated marine paints offer excellent waterproofing properties. Many boatbuilders apply multiple coats of marine-grade paint to the boat’s hull, creating a durable and waterproof outer layer.
• Caulking: Caulking involves filling the gaps between wooden planks or seams with a specialized sealant, such as cotton, oakum, or modern synthetic materials. This prevents water from infiltrating the vessel and causing damage. Over time, caulking may need to be inspected and replaced to maintain optimal waterproofing.
• Traditional Linseed Oil Treatments: Linseed oil, a natural drying oil, has been used for centuries to preserve and waterproof wooden boats. A mixture of boiled linseed oil and other ingredients can be applied to the wood, penetrating its fibers and forming a protective barrier against water and moisture.
• Fiberglass Overlay: In some cases, boatbuilders apply a layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin over the wooden hull. This technique, known as “glassing,” adds an extra layer of waterproofing and durability to the boat.

Preservation and Maintenance of Wooden Boats. While effective waterproofing techniques provide a robust defense against moisture, preserving a wooden boat’s waterproofing integrity requires constant maintenance. Regular inspections, cleaning, and reapplication of protective coatings are essential to extend the lifespan of the vessel.

Owners should be vigilant in checking for signs of water damage, including soft spots, discoloration, and peeling paint or varnish. Addressing these issues promptly can prevent more extensive and costly repairs down the line.

What is the best finish for a cedar strip canoe?

The only varnish that I would avoid is Schooner Varnish. There have been occasional problems reported over a couple of decades with Schooner not hardening-up properly over WEST. It doesn’t happen every time, but there does seem to be enough evidence of problems to be cautious. I generally use Captain’s Varnish over WEST epoxy. It is high quality stuff with a good UV absorber and I’ve used it for a long time with excellent results. I usually apply it to hulls in thin layers using a yellow Gougeon roller, followed by tipping it out immediately with a soft brush. I seem to get much better thickness control and far fewer drips or sags that way than I do with a brush.

If you’d asked about System 3 epoxies, I’d tell you to go buy their spar urethane – That and Interlux spar varnish are the only things I’ve found that cures over this particular epoxy. Has anyone else found something that works with System 3?

How to remove fiberglass from wood canoe?

You’ll need a high-quality heat gun and leather or jersey gloves for this removal process. Paint-stripper type heat guns work well. Use the heat gun to soften the fiberglass and resin layer.

Begin by heating the fiberglass along one of the edges. Gently force a putty knife or chisel under the fiberglass. Once an edge is lifted, pull up gently on the fiberglass with a pair of pliers. Use one hand to pull on the fiberglass while heating the resin and fiberglass with a heat gun in the other. Direct the heat just ahead of the point where the glass is peeling off. To achieve the ideal removal process for your project, experiment with how far you hold the heat gun from the surface, how long you hold it there and the rate at which you pull the fiberglass from the surface.

The fiberglass is ideally removed in long narrow strips 4 to 6 inches wide. Score the fiberglass surface with a utility knife in a direction parallel to the wood grain. You don’t need to cut all the way through the fiberglass. Glass fabric will tear along the cut just as paper tears along a perforation. Avoid cutting through the fiberglass into the wood below especially if the project will be given a natural finish. Cuts that penetrate the wood will show when you recoat the surface with resin and fiberglass.

Apply heat uniformly by moving the heat gun back and forth across the 4 to 6 inch width. This will help you avoid overheating the surface. If you apply the right combination of heat and gentle tension to the fiberglass, it will pull free from the substrate leaving a layer of epoxy still attached to the wood. (See photo)

Should I put polyurethane on cedar?

Caution. Transparent, non-flexible, film-forming finishes such as lacquer, shellac, urethane, and varnish are not recommended for exterior use on cedar. Ultraviolet radiation can penetrate the transparent film and degrade the wood.

Tips on Finishing Western Red Cedar Outdoor Applications. How to Apply Finishing to Real Cedar. How a finish is applied to cedar is as important for durability and good performance as is the finish-substrate combination chosen for the job. Finishes can be brushed, rolled, sprayed or applied by dipping. The application technique, the quality and quantity of finish applied, the surface condition of the substrate, and the weather conditions at the time of application can substantially influence the life expectancy of the finish. The application guidelines suggested here should be followed in concert with the manufacturer’s directions for the product.

Paints. Paints of all types such as vinyl-acrylic, modified-acrylic, and oil-based top coats are all suitable for cedar but test results show that good-quality 100%-acrylic formulations perform best. To achieve maximum paint life, follow these steps:

• On bare new or restored cedar, apply one coat only of water-repellent preservative (1% or less of wax by volume and content). Allow it to dry for the period of time recommended by the manufacturer. If the wood has been dip treated, a longer drying time may be needed. Do not paint before the solvent from the water-repellent preservative has evaporated because the paint may then be slow to dry, may discolor, or dry with a rough surface.
• Apply a good quality stain-blocking primer as soon as possible after the water-repellent has dried. The primer coat is very important because it forms a base for all succeeding paint coats and should be used whether the top coat is oil-based or latex-based. Application rates recommended by the manufacturer should be followed.
• Apply the top coat over the primer. If two top coats are to be applied, allow the first to cure for the period recommended by the manufacturer before applying the second. In cold or damp weather, allow extra time between coats.

Can you build a strip canoe out of pine?

Yes, you can use any wood to build a boat. But, whether it will float or how long it might last is another conversation.

What are the cons of a wooden canoe?

Cons: Susceptible to sun damage. Lack of rigidity can lead to poor performance over time.Heavy.

Best For: Recreational paddlers and rambunctious kids. Perfect for a cottage.

Softshell. Travel canoes are made of durable and flexible reinforced fabrics like PVC, polyester and nylon. Some require setting up an internal structure, giving form to the fabric, while others are completely inflatable. Many will pleasantly surprise you with their durability, performance and price. Some models are rated for class IV whitewater.

Does rough cedar need to be sealed?

Sealing your cedar siding is an important step to protect and maintain its natural beauty. By understanding the benefits of sealing, choosing the right sealer, prepping your siding, and properly applying and maintaining the sealer, you can ensure that your cedar siding will continue to look great for years to come. Remember to inspect your siding regularly for any signs of damage or wear. With the right care and maintenance, your cedar siding will be a beautiful and durable addition to your home.

If you need any advice about sealing cedar siding feel free to reach out to us and we’d be happy to help you. Or you can check out our different sealing products online.

How do you maintain a cedar strip canoe?

The ultra-violet rays of the sunlight tear apart wood finished almost as fast as a belt sander and what the sun doesn’t ruin, the moisture soon will. Therefore, it is imperative to refinish the exposed woodwork on your canoe (a light sanding and a coat of varnish) at least every two years.

If thecanoe has to be stored outside use a good weatherproof tarp and make sure it isoff the ground and out of the sun.

Eventhough we use a good oil base exterior enamel, a canoe should not be left inthe water for extended periods of time when not in use. If you have cane seats, varnish the topsurface only. The material has tobreathe.

If yourcanoe overturns – dry it out. Cedarreadily absorbs water – not drying it could cause the planking to warp. The secret is attention to details thataren’t immediately obvious. That’s whyit is so easy to miss them. The forcesyou’re fighting are sunlight and rain – they’re sneaky and persistent..

Do you have to fiberglass a cedar strip canoe?

Epoxy alone is not generally used as a structural component. It is the fiberglass cloth that does this on a strip canoe. Since there are no structural ribs for the planks, it must be sheathed in cloth; otherwise there’s nothing to hold the hull together. Doug R. is right in classing this as a composite hull…thin cedar wood between two layers of fiberglass cloth.

Plywood is a strong multi layered product that is very strong structurally, so one can get away with with only taping the seams.

In a wood/canvas canoe, there are typically many ribs and wider planks; but it leaks like a basket without the filled canvas to serve as a waterproof skin. In certain larger canoes, say like a Gander Bay Guide canoe, the seams can be caulked much akin to a small boat or skiff planked on steam bent ribs. I see that in Driftwood’s canoe, he seems to have used heavier ribs spaced further apart than in the ‘typical’ wood/canvas construction. I too am curious as to the specifics of his build technique. How did he waterproof the hull?

What will dissolve fibreglass?

Fiberglass, as in the actual glass fiber, can be dissolved by heated concentrated alkali solutions. Fiberglass reinforced plastic, which most people call fiberglass, has no known room temperature solvent. The epoxy resin can be attacked by concentrated acids, such as sulfuric, but it isn’t an actual dissolving.

How long does a wooden canoe last?

Well Maintained Wooden Boats Can Last 10 – 25 Years.

There is something special about wooden boats. They have a certain charm and allure that is hard to replicate. Many people are drawn to them because of their classic look and feel. But there is more to wooden boats than just their aesthetics. People also appreciate the fact that they can last for many years with proper care and maintenance. In this blog post, we will explore how long wooden boats last and what you can do to make sure yours lasts as long as possible!

Well Maintained Wooden Boats Can Last 10 – 25 Years. For anyone who loves being on the water, a wooden boat can be a beautiful and classic choice. While wooden boats require more upkeep than their fiberglass or aluminum counterparts, with proper care they can last for many years. In fact, well-maintained wooden boats can last 10 to 25 years or even longer.

With regular cleaning, sanding, and painting, wooden boats can continue to look great and perform well year after year. In addition, it is important to check the boat’s hull regularly for any signs of cracks or other damage. By taking good care of a wooden boat, it is possible to enjoy many years of use.

How to get fiberglass off wood?

Heat is the way to go. In order to get the fiberglass off, you have to do something that softens it and reduces it’s bond strength until it is below the grain strength of the cedar planking. This is what will allow you to peel it off without taking wood with it. Since soaking really doesn’t change the nature of the resin, it can’t be counted on to do this evenly and consistently and the result will be wood being torn off the boat anywhere that the bond is still good. How good that bond is will be the luck of the draw. If it’s old polyester resin, many of them don’t stick very well to wood and the job may be fairly easy (in a nasty, messy sort of way). Other polyesters and most epoxy resins stick much better to wood and the job may go slower, but heat is still the best way to remove them.

In my shop I remove fiberglass from a lot of boats each year. Some people use a heat gun I have found a propane torch and a good scraper the best. Just watch the flame so you don’t burn the wood.

How flammable is the softened resin? Is that something else to watch out for, or is it not an issue?