Anchoring a boat by yourself is possible, but requires quick footwork and the use of windlass controls and a chain counter at the helm. The seven basic steps are the same, but you must approach your drop spot slowly and come to a near stop with the boat in neutral before running up.
In the open ocean, anchoring is not possible due to the depth of the water. The best way to anchor a cruising sailboat in various conditions is using a CQR, Bruce, Delta, or Rocna. Clear sky, calm sea, and only a gentle ripple on the water in the bay are the most common ways to anchor.
Choosing the right anchor and chain size is crucial for maintaining good holding. Anchors dig into the seabed to hold a boat in position and serve a safety role by keeping boats out of the surf or rocks. Sea anchors provide hydrodynamic drag, acting as a brake, rather than tethering the boat to the seabed with a conventional anchor.
In the open ocean, anchoring is not necessary as you are unlikely to run into anything, so it’s fine to just float. In the middle of the ocean, anchoring is not possible due to the depth. To maintain good holding, you need to have two anchors, one with high holding power and ready to drop in a few easy steps.
Sea anchors, or drogues, can slow the boat’s drift down by sitting deep in the water. It is essential to prepare your sailboat for anchoring by understanding the basics of anchoring in calm conditions and practicing proper anchor maneuvers.
📹 Learning this could SAVE YOUR LIFE! How to Anchor a Boat in the Ocean
Learning how to Anchor a boat could save your life in the ocean. I’ll show a few anchoring tips and tricks on what to look for to …
Can you anchor in the ocean?
Ships do not anchor in open deep ocean. only in shallow waters such as in bays and harbors. Ships are not anchored in place by the anchor itself, but by the length of anchor chain which is let out along the bottom. Typically 7 times the depth of water.
Do sail boats have anchors?
Experience Gained in 3 Years of Sailboat Cruising. Over the past 3 years, we have anchored in almost all bottom types except for kelp (we will learn this in Patagonia). We have anchored in heavy current areas, surf, rolly anchorages, and held our ground in wind gusts up to 65 knots. We have also dragged our anchor a few times and experienced others dragging into us.
We hope to shed some light and a real-world perspective on the topic which can generate a lot of passionate debate in the forums or over sundowners.
Experience with the Lightweight Fortress Anchor. First, a little bit about our experience before we started cruising. This is our base point. Before cruising we had anchored a sailboat a total of 3 times. Twice on a J/105 that we cruised in the North Channel of Lake Huron, and once in Lake St. Clair on a Melges 24 waiting out a postponement between races.
Where should you never anchor from?
- Select an area to anchor with plenty of room. Ideally, it should be a well-protected area with adequate water depth and a sandy or muddy bottom.
- Head slowly into the wind or current to a position upwind or upcurrent of where you actually want to end up.
- When you are at that position, stop the boat and slowly lower the anchor over the bow to the bottom. Never anchor from the stern as this can cause the boat to swamp. The square stern may be hit by waves, and water will splash into the boat. The motor’s weight will add to this problem.
- Slowly back the boat away downwind or downcurrent. Let out about seven to ten times as much anchor line as the depth of the water, depending on the wind strength and wave size. Tie off the line around a bow cleat, and pull on the anchor line to make sure the anchor is set.
- After anchoring, take visual sightings of onshore objects or buoys in the water to help you know where your boat is positioned. While at anchor, recheck these sightings frequently to make sure the anchor is not dragging.
- Periodically check connecting knots on your anchor line. When possible, use splices instead of knots. Knots weaken a line more than splices.
Can you permanently anchor a boat?
Anchors achieve holding power either by “hooking” into the seabed, or weight, or a combination of the two. The weight of the anchor chain can be more than that of the anchor and is critical to proper holding. Permanent moorings use large masses (commonly a block or slab of concrete) resting on the seabed. Semi-permanent mooring anchors (such as mushroom anchors) and large ship’s anchors derive a significant portion of their holding power from their weight, while also hooking or embedding in the bottom. Modern anchors for smaller vessels have metal flukes that hook on to rocks on the bottom or bury themselves in soft seabed.
The vessel is attached to the anchor by the rode (also called a cable or a warp). It can be made of rope, chain or a combination of rope and chain. The ratio of the length of rode to the water depth is known as the scope (see below).
Holding ground is the area of sea floor that holds an anchor, and thus the attached ship or boat. Different types of anchor are designed to hold in different types of holding ground. Some bottom materials hold better than others; for instance, hard sand holds well, shell holds poorly. Holding ground may be fouled with obstacles. An anchorage location may be chosen for its holding ground. In poor holding ground, only the weight of an anchor and chain matters; in good holding ground, it is able to dig in, and the holding power can be significantly higher. The word “anchor” is sometimes used as British slang for the brakes on a car.
Where should you avoid anchoring?
Important. You should never anchor in, or otherwise obstruct passage through, channels or areas such as launching ramps or any other high-traffic areas.
Do cruise ships anchor at sea?
Do All Cruise Ships Have Anchors? In general, you’ll still see anchors on every vessel. However, some modern cruise ships primarily use dynamic positions, which means they use propulsion and thrusters to maintain a steady position.
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When you see cruise ships today, they come off as some of the most advanced technology we have. So hearing that cruise ships still use what may be considered ancient technology – such as anchors – may come as a surprise.
Anchors are still an essential part of a ship’s operation. This leads to several questions, including what exactly is the purpose, and how big is the anchor of a cruise ship? If these are your questions, you’ve come to the right place to find answers.
Can you take a sailboat across the ocean?
A yacht designed for maximum space is the opposite of what makes an excellent blue-water, ocean-going yacht. Compare a Beneteau or Jeanneau to one of Rubicon 3’s Clipper 60s; you will immediately know which is the right boat on which to make the crossing. Properly shaped hulls make for a far safer and more comfortable sail with a gentle entry and exit and buoyant overhangs that soak up the impacts. Cockpits are narrower to reduce water intake, and cabins have handholds and no wide open spaces, meaning crew are safe and secure below. So yes, of course, you can make a transatlantic crossing in a standard cruising yacht, and many do each year. However, if and when it gets mucky out there, and you’re facing genuine bad weather, you will be delighted if you are in a bigger, more robust, purpose-designed yacht.
The Safety Equipment Needed. You will find that properly equipped, commercially coded Cat 0 yachts such as those operated by Rubicon 3, have a comprehensive array of safety gear that most leisure or cruising yachts will not have.
- Life Raft:A certified, appropriately sized life raft for the crew, stored in an easily accessible location. Commercially operated Cat 0 yachts will carry 2-3 ocean-spec life rafts with Hydrostatic Release Units.
- Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs):Enough high-quality life jackets for each crew member, equipped with lights, whistles, spray hoods, and Personal Locator Beacons (PLBs)
- Harnesses and Tethers:Safety harnesses and tethers for each crew member to wear while on deck, especially in rough weather or at night.
- EPIRB (Emergency Position-Indicating Radio Beacon): An EPIRB is crucial for signalling your location in case of an emergency and should be attached by an HRU
- Satellite Phone or SSB Radio: Once you’re out of VHF range (about 30 miles offshore), you rely on the sat comms or SSB radio if you need weather or help.
- Radar:Essential for sailing into fog and seeing squalls at night.
- Enhanced First Aid Kit:An ocean-spec first aid kit will be far beyond an everyday yachting kit and require the crew to receive specific, more advanced medical training.
- Flares and Visual Distress Signals:Various flares (handheld, parachute, smoke) and other visual distress signals.
- Fire Extinguishers:Adequately sized and rated fire extinguishers strategically placed around the vessel.
- Bilge Pumps:Both manual and electric bilge pumps in case of water ingress.
- Emergency Steering:A backup tiller or emergency steering system in case of main steering failure.
- Emergency Rations and Water:Extra provisions include non-perishable food and potable water in case of extended rescue times.
- Drogue or Sea Anchor:To stabilize the boat in heavy weather conditions.
- Tool Kit and Repair Materials:Basic tools and materials for emergency repairs, including spare parts for essential equipment.
- Survival Suits:In cold weather sailing, survival suits can be life-saving in case of immersion. Rubicon 3 yachts are equipped with Fladen suits.
- Fog Horn and Bell:For signaling in low visibility conditions.
- Grab Bag:A waterproof bag containing essential items like a handheld VHF, spare batteries, first aid supplies, emergency food and water, and personal documents.
- Lifelines and Jacklines:Installed on deck to provide secure movement around the yacht.
- Thermal Protective Aids:In case of hypothermia risk during cold weather sailing.
How to anchor a sailing boat?
How to Anchor a BoatDetermine the water depth where you want to drop anchor.Calculate the correct amount of anchor scope (a 7:1 ratio is recommended).Lower the anchor and let out enough scope, then secure the rope to a bow cleat.Ensure there is no drag—use landmarks or onboard electronics to measure movement.
Learning how to anchor a boatis a basic seamanship skill that every boater should master, even if you don’t anticipate anchoring very often. Understanding how to set the anchor and retrieve an anchor is critical—an anchor can hold your boat in place in a secluded cove for a few hours of swimming or an overnight stay, but it’s also an essential piece of safety gear. If your boat engine fails, a well-set anchor will keep wind or current from drifting your disabled boat onto a shoal or ashore, where it could be damaged.
We’ll just cover the basics here, and remember, agood seamanship guide or course will go into much more valuable detail.
- How to Anchor a Boat. Determine the water depth where you want to drop anchor.
- Calculate the correct amount of anchor scope (a 7:1 ratio is recommended).
- Lower the anchor and let out enough scope, then secure the rope to a bow cleat.
- Ensure thereis no drag—use landmarks or onboard electronics to measure movement.
- If needed, reset the anchor.
- To retrieve the anchor, slowly motor toward the anchor while pulling in the rope.
- Remember, never tie off an anchor to the stern of a boat.
Do ship anchors damage the ocean floor?
A ship’s anchor can shift, and its mooring chain swing across the seabed, causing abrasion of the seafloor and damage to benthic ecosystems; this phenomenon is known as ‘anchor scour’.
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📹 Which Anchor?
There’s no doubt that your anchor is one of the most important items on your boat and it’s one of the most overlooked. There have …
I really respect your comparison of 3x to 5x. That says a lot for your understanding of anchoring geometry. 3:1 is typical minimum for the geometry of the anchor. 5:1 increases weight, overcomes tide and waves, and facilitates resetting after a shift. In optimum conditions 3:1 will hold. 4:1 to 5:1 overcomes typical issues. 3:1 isn’t bad for lake sailors. Ocean sailors should use 5:1.
Hmm. My personal findings from cruising in a variety of global conditions is that it’s generally less about the anchor model and much more about anchoring technique, chain scope etc. And yes, Im one of THOSE people with a Rocna and I haven’t encountered the criticisms you cite about roll bars – I do however have direct experience of it holding in sand and weed through two named storms at 60 knots.
Anchor opinions! Everybody that owns a boat certainly has one. Me, being as how I built my Herreshoff Marco Polo in the early 80’s, went with a ‘first generation anchor’….my 75# CQR with 1/2″ chain kept us where we intended through about 50K miles of cruising, including being on the hook through a couple hurricanes. 120+ winds (Tahiti in 82) The trick is to have an anchor that is good for any sort of holding, the CQR may not be the very best in soft mud, but once in, it’s in. No matter which a person chooses….an open roadstead is still something that gets one up several times during the night. -Veteran ’66-68 ex-Schooner Valkyrie.
Many thanks for your work. I have a Spade on my Lagoon 42 in Croatia, and we do find that it has a habit of ending up on its back, my wife calls it ‘beetle mode’, once set though it has worked very well, and we have had some serious wind shifts as thunderstorms have passed overhead. We normally anchor, rather than go into a marina (very expensive with just two of us onboard a cat), or harbour, we like being ‘off grid’ and make use of our solar and water maker to allow us to enjoy quiet bays. However, I need to replace my chain, and the galvanisation on the Spade is showing some wear and tear and I have been considering an Ultra, and perusal this has convinced me that, despite being expensive, it is an excellent investment for us to make.
I’m sure the Ultra is a great bit of kit but having just checked Jimmy Green Marine, the cost to replace my 20kg Rocna and 65m of 8mm chain would be over £3000 – far in excess of what many could realistically afford. My outlay for tackle that’s kept my boat secure in 45+kts on more than one occasion in a variety of places was barely £800. Unless you’re lucky enough to have a magic wallet, everything about cruising is a compromise based on experience, competence and what you can actually afford – even safety-critical items. If I wasn’t confident that my anchor would hold in any given situation then I’d either not anchor or I’d maintain a watch. I was certainly impressed with your review of the Ultra which was fair, although it’s clear it would never fit on my boat without substantial alterations to the bow rollers, adding yet more expense. Perhaps the reason why there’s not many reviews of the Ultra is because so few people can afford one!
I have a 1975 Aquasport 170. I use my boat in the Tampa Bay area where the bottom is nearly all sand or grasses and I use a Danforth thats made for a boat up to 26′, 8′ of chain and 200′ of 3/8″ nylon line. Lol pretty simple for a pretty simple boat. I also have a second, smaller Danforth for the stern or whatever, really, when needed.
Great review and I looked into the Ultra and really like its performance. I personally will be getting a 20 or 25kg Rocna as the 20kg is around $800 New Zealand, the 25kg is a little under $1200 New Zealand and the 20kg Ultra without the swivel is a little over $3600 New Zealand. So while I think the Ultra is better resetting and less prone to fouling the Rocna has been well proven in extreme conditions and is very popular here in NZ. For those that can afford the Ultra I have not heard anything bad about them and your anchor is some of the best insurance you can get for your boat.
Thankyou for going through the anchor types with clear reasoning as to the good, bad and the ugly. Up to date my preference and from all I had read I was of the view that the Sarca was possibly the best out there. However, perusal/listening to your description re the Ultra I can see why perhaps not so. It’s always good to learn from others experience. I was never a fan of the Rocna, despite plenty of others saying they are great. Likewise seeing the Ultra swivel it certainly looks like it’s a decent bit of kit. Checking the prices on line for the Ultra and given it’s stainless as well, it sure looks like decent value for money and one’s peace of mind.
Great review, but I would say that as I was about to start this sentence with “snap!”. Around the marina there are a lot of die-hards that won’t listen to anything and would rebuke your 5:1 scope. Me, I’m in total agreement, and if it’s that crowded move away. The chain is as important as the anchor and we found an auto aligning and rotating swivel which is priceless in preserving the front of the boat. Now where’s my magnet! A review of secondary anchors would be very welcome.
my dad use to drag a fare bit on the west cost off scotland, he had a cutless 27, he had a cqr with full chain, he ended up getting a 35kg bruce never moved once with that haha now trying to lift it was a diferant story!! still got it somewhere, one time it draged was a good point it did as a couple in a dinghy were hanging on to a mooring for there lifes as they coudnt row agenst the tide to get to there boat we only seen them when we moved the boat ferther up the bay to reset the anker!!
Great article. I love to learn new things about boating although we motor boat. We have a delta anchor and I just hate it. I used to anchor over night but just don’t do it now as I don’t trust the delta to re-set. The ultra anchor looks superb. I will take a look on line to see the different sizes available. As I say great article but I missed Judy this time.
In the California delta most anchorage’s are mud bottoms with grass. I had a 43’ fiberglass houseboat that had a lot of sail area. I had three anchors. A Fortress aluminum “Danforth”, an original Bruce, and a Lewmar delta. Danforth was next to worthless as an anchor unless it was deep beyond sea growth otherwise it was great at hauling up a “salad ball”. The Bruce was very good and would quickly punch through the grass but if it did pull out it needed to be de-weeded before a reset. The Lewmar delta is inexpensive and dependable. Nothing fussy, just lower and back away. It was the most likely to reset if it got yanked over. I always set at least two anchors (didn’t have to re-aim the TV rabbit ears).
I remember years ago with a danford in 60+ Knots on a 30 foot try (Yes you heard that right ) Offshore wind lifting the yacht completely out of the water in the gust, getting hit by penny sized pebbles from the shore 150 meters away (took off the paint & some antifoul forard). We had a smaller CQR & a fisherman out either side of the our main pick the danford . After the blow, 36 hrs, the fisherman was straightened out, The CQR was OK But the Danfords shank had stretched a third more of its original size – Sold the try next week .
I found you article useful giving feedback on the delta and brugel. Im a small yacht 6 m kingfisher 20.I carry plenty chain 100 feet 6mm plus 50 feet 8mm with 100 foot warp or 170 feet 8mm with 100 ft 6mm. I have 7.5 kg bruce on 6mm which holds fine up to F 6 plus. 22lb Thames anchor on 8mm, and double up a 20 lb fisherman in tandem with bruce in kelp or weed. But im looking for additional anchor that works better in weed or rock and good reset so thought about the delta or brugel both realistic priced. You given me confidence in them, cheers!
HEY Fair Isle, I had to say that your article was a very good review of what appears to be a very good anchor . I do like all the thought and build quality behind that anchor . I have also seen very compelling article on the Rockna and that anchor also seems to reset very very well… but scope is very important for it to dig properly. I have seen the Rockna handle 90 and 180 degree wind shift and reset every time … it may have used a bit more real estate to do it… but it reset every time. Robert North Star
Glad to see you went with an Ultra. I was torn between Ultra and Spade as you probably remember from previous comments of mine. My neighbor has an Ultra and absolutely loves it. My Spade has just started to loose the yellow surprising after a year. I suspected it would be more gone by now. I went with a 55lb anchor which when we set off full time cruising will become a spare anchor as we will likely go up to a 77lb or 100lb anchor as a primary. Whats interesting is the Ultra sizing guide is telling me for my boat (17ton 42 footer mono) I should run their 77lb anchor while Spade is saying the 55lb is fine. I suspect side by side comparison, Ultra will hold better in higher winds due to higher weight and size. It would be interesting to get both anchors and run them in a side by side, weight for weight test. Great to see you post this article, I think people tend to under estimate the importance of a good anchor and anchoring system. It’s one of those functions that people tend to cheap out. Reduce budgets in other areas to get an anchoring system that is the best is better than one that is “okay in most cases”
Great article full of valuable information. I watched Steve’s article but one thing I didn’t like about it was instead of using the swivel designed to work with this anchor he used a janky two shackle setup. It was easy to see that, that definitely didn’t help the Ultra’s performance. Your article on the other hand uses the proper over engineered swivel and showcases just how well the Ultra Anchors handle resetting. I know that when I finally get my vessel one of the first purchases will be an Ultra with their swivel and chain because I do so enjoy a good nights sleep…
I have an ultra and swivel for 3 yrs very good anchor, good set no dragging, because it s stainless i recommend a stainless chain to minimize rust on galvanized chain caused by having 2 different metals, I have experienced rust on the first 2 links so much so that I have to cut the links every 8 month to prevent rust stains on foredeck
Good article, i found very interesting, thank you. I have CQR anchors on both my boats. Just have to say, like i do to most people these days 😂.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ‘ momentum is not inertia ‘ . To try and keep it simple. ‘Momentum must be overcome to stop an object thats moving ‘,,,,,,,,,,,where as . ‘Inertia must be overcome to start an object moving’ . Similarly both according to mass .
Definitely a nice looking anchor. It’s also interesting that Rocna’s new anchor is somewhat similar in shape to the Ultra and lacks the hoop of the original rocna. Always nice to see actual testing being done rather than just purely anecdotal testimony (though the sheer popularity of the rocna does suggest it’s at least a decent anchor). I am shocked just how little product testing happens in boating. It seems like any actual testing and comparison between different options is always at least a decade old. Surprising since one of the standard things you hear about buying a boat is “never buy a boat without testing it”, lol.
Regarding the Ultra, you can always just use 2 shackles if you don’t like the swivel. One small nitpick is that on some boats, water pools in the ultra anchor on the pulpit, and then it corrodes because it is like a dish holding water. There was a 70something Princess on our dock that i would walk by the Ultra every day going to my boat, and there was always corrosion and pooled water in it.
Kudos on some very impressive camera work! Very interesting to see your anchor setting so quickly. I have been using a Rochna very successfully for the past five or so years. Yes, I’ve heard more impressive comments regarding spades, mantis and other anchors but nothing enough to make me want to buy another anchor. In more than 100 anchorages over the past few years, I’ve only dragged twice and in both instances I am convinced that no anchor would have held. In 50+ years of cruising in North America, Europe, the Caribbean and northern Africa, I’ve never locked my boat and have never lost anything other than one anchor! I would seriously lose sleep over your beautiful stainless steel anchor if it was perched on my bow in plain view. I am guessing your stainless steel anchor chain combined with your anchor and swivel makes the total cost of these items comparable to the entire cost of your beautiful yacht! But there is something certainly said for peace of mind sleeping at night in a precarious anchorage. Another point worth mentioning. On at least two occasions I have anchored in 70 feet of water. Naturally a 5 to 1 scope is impractical. But no doubt due to the tremendous weight of the chain, a 3 to 1 scope held us in fairly brisk conditions. I would have loved to see a article of the anchor in that situation, but my guess is that all that chain hung vertical from the boat and then was flat against the seabed to the anchor.
The Ultra anchor does look impressive, but it also looks very expensive. I now Googled. These anchors are almost $2000 for a modest-sized sailboat. But then I think if I weren’t retired. So funny that he starts not being impressed by shiny anchors, but then it is a shiny anchor that he ultimately picks, albeit one that actually performs.
Hi Steve In 2008 I sailed from NZ to Chile with Pete Smith The developer of the Rocna and over the 28 or so days of sailing learnt a lot about his motivation and philosophy on anchoring. For our boat a Bruce Roberts 44 steel ketch have used a rocna25kg it has only let go once and that was my fault not setting it at all. In 2019 we changed to a Sarca Excel 30 for doing a circuit around NZ, it let us down on numerous occasions, so went back to the Rocna25kg. So in regard to your Steve on anchor test, have little faith in his test. Your choice of the Ulta is good, but coming back to your discussion on stainless chain, is it made of the correct grade for world wide use? and although one needs an up to the task ground tackle the price of the Ultra is out of our budget and I think I would go for the Rocna Vulcan, no role bar. Cheers Kevin
Very well done. I did a circumnavigation about 20 years ago with the anchors you immediately dismissed–the Bruce (bower anchor), CQR, and Danforth, which I don’t believe you mentioned. We only used the Danforth for a stern anchor. I have no experience with the modern anchors you mentioned. But all three of the above have saved my bacon enough times that I would not tempt the gods by disparaging them. I have dragged exactly one time in my sailing career. It was with the Bruce, after a windshift in about 25 k, in weed. Fortunately, my crew was aboard and awake. I have had difficulty getting the Bruce to set a couple of times, the worst of which was in Mykonos. But when we finally found a good spot, we stuck through a gale and were one of the very few boats that didn’t move an inch. I of course have nothing to offer in the way of criticism at all, and am only speaking from my own experience. But my impression is that 90% of anchoring failures fall into three categories. In order of frequency they are 1) Poor anchoring technique. 2) Completely inadequate holding ground. This of course should be discovered during anchoring, and if moving isn’t an option, a proper 24-hour anchor watch should be maintained. 3) Gear failure, which can be obviously avoided by proper maintenance. Again, well done, thanks for the report, and fair winds.
Very interesting article of anchors I thought, and to actually get to see what and how an anchor reacts when setting one, I was wondering One time I was perusal a yacht article and what this one man did, what he called a three-point anchor? I watched the article but his explanation of it I did not understand it, I was wondering perhaps you could explain it as you have a great understand method of teaching, Love all your article’s and follow with anticipation of what happens next episode. regards from Robert.
Honestly, CQRs have all done well really for me mostly in muds, sands, and occasional coral rubble bottoms (though I do tend to ‘upsize’) and I use as much chain as I can get away with. A Delta did well, and you could almost ‘fly’ it down to the bottom. Not a fan of Danforths unless they’re properly built with a really good solid shank. Why anyone would waste cash on a stainless anchor (or chain) of any type baffles me.
The weight of an anchor on the bow and its effect upon sailing performance is another factor. The excellent holding performance of the Ultra for its size (along with the Spade, which I’ve chosen because I’m not as rich as Steve) means that good holding can be had without increased pendulum motion when sailing. I keep seeing folks choose heavy Rocnas, when a lighter Spade (or Ultra for rich people 😉 ) would dig deeper and bobble less.
I bought a rocna, looked at an Ultra, but like that Bentley I saw that one time… $3,500 canadian….ouch but ya real nice anchors. Now there are a lot of comments about “it’s worth the insurance” and while I believe that is absolutely true the Ultra is something I simply dont have the money for… so we can say how great it is, and it is, not everyone in life has enough disposable income to buy one, period.
The characteristics of that last anchor, the stainless steel one, are the same as the Bruce only the holding power is different. I’ve used Bruce 11s, 22s, 33s, and 44 s. I say the 33 in a thick mud bottom is good for about 700 lb of pull in my 30-footer. That’s about about a 45 or 50 knot wind. I’ve anchored on a Bruce probably seven eight hundred times and I’ve never had one pull out. They might drag very slowly but I’ve never broken one out. They also rotate while staying dug-in on wind shifts or title changes. That anchor looks very impressive but a 33lb Bruce cost $250. So I bought two. I’ve probably owned nine or ten Bruce anchors I love them. They are definitely not a storm anchor though. I always drop a large Danforth with the Bruce in a Blow.
It seems like the best anchor there is. We had a 50′ monohull with a 25kg Delta, which was supplied new with the boat. In a word, Useless..! A 27kg Delta would have been the answer, I think, but there is the small issue of the price. Around 6 times the price of a regular anchor, it’s expensive. Made in Turkey, you’d think the labour cost would be more affordable. A terrific review by the way.
Thanks for the article. I’m thinking about getting one of these. I haven’t seen one single bad review so far. BUT…. because top of the range anchors are often “real world” tested by people living aboard, they are also usually sailing in “southern” waters where it’s typically sand or (rarely) grass. Have you ever had a occasion to use it in thick kelp (eg scottish waters)? I need to use it in those waters sometimes and many anchors don’t do so well there in my experience. None of these modern anchors are put through there paces in those difficult waters because people who live aboard don’t tend to want to spend there time in cold, wet, foggy scotland when they can be basking in the sunshone of the med or the carribean (who can blame them?) and those same livaboards are mostly the only ones testing these anchors. So… thick kelp… anyone ???? Thanks
Brilliant article and congratulations on your professional presentation but please don’t kick the CQR into touch. I used one on my 29’ Albin Ballad for 25 years with no problems. I appreciate that Fair Isle is not an old Ballad and fully deserves the expense of the Ultra for your live aboard existence.
You failed to mention the four pronged fishermans anchor, made from reinforcing bar, as found in North Africa? A bugger to stow but if hung on the pushpit, never an issue. Digs in to everything, hooks onto trees, loves rocks and can be abandoned should you get it stuck (never happened to us) cost’s twenty pounds, depending on size. Makes a great kedge too. Yes it goes rusty so paint it a bright colour and you can see it in the weed. Best tip, dont scrimp on scope.
Well, I hear you, I believe ultra is a good anchor, yet I am not convinced I have to trash my Delta. First my good old delta hasn’t let me down for 30 years. Second, for my boat ultra recommends a 10 Kg heavier anchor. If i were to go for a 10Kg heavier Delta, who can guarantee the recommended Ultra would still be better? I always go one size up anyway, as with anchors bigger is better. But to do that you really have to strengthen the rollers and all the anchor gear, and I did that for the extra 7 Kg of anchor weight. So if I were to go one size up for ultra too, then the additional 13 Kg, or 20Kg more than the originally recommended Delta for my boat, will require a lot more work on the bow to accommodate. So the costs are far greater than just buying the anchor. I would happily pay more for safety, but not convinced the Ultra is better than my oversized Delta anchor I currently have.
Another good article Steve however, I have to disagree with some of your comparisons re the Ultra vs Rocna. Firstly, what you call the Rocna (Vulcan) a new anchor and imply that they are trying to copy the style of a Spade or an Ultra. The Vulcan isn’t actually that new was primarily designed to fit onto motor cruisers, which often can’t accommodate the roller bar because of their hull designs unlike the bow rollers on sailing yachts. Additionally, most of the independent revuews I read actually gave the Rocna the highest score for holding power in most terrains over even the Spade as well as the others. Granted, the Ultra also has excellent scores, however, I’d feel gutted if (as I’ve experienced) I had to set my anchor and 70m chain free after getting it fouled in deep cold water.without the possibility to retrieve it. We’ve never dragged to dates with our Rocna bet regularly had problems with our old Delta which took forever to set. That said, Ultra anchors do look great!
Great to the point article, but how much is the ultra let alone the swivel? We have just been locked down in S Brittany I have a Bruce not keen on it after it pick up a bolder in the claw it took me 10 minutes to knock the bloody thing out. For the money I’m considering the Spade. Good luck with your future travels.😃
Nice quick overview of anchors. I’ve also been doing a lot of research and have watched all of Steve’s articles. Can you give me some specs of your setup? Boat length and displacement, chain size, swivel size, and anchor size? I’ve been going back and forth between the Ultra and Excel for a while now. I didn’t know that they had upgraded their shank material to Duplex, that’s a big plus. Steve’s recent articles in very soft mud and cobblestone rock has pushed me further towards the Excel, whereas the Ultra had some trouble there. He hasn’t done a test in very hard sand though, and I suspect that the Ultra probably does better than the Excel there.
Thanks for the article but i have a few questions: Did you purchase the anchor or was it provided by Ultra Marine due to the success of your website (do not mean to offend, juts want to make sure its a non biased review). Also have you had any issues in “soft mud” Steve has reviewed this anchor since your review and it was marked down for “soft mud” and “cobble stone” bottoms.
It’s not good idea to just ignore some anchors because of your personal preference. You did not do a scientific type of experiment that shows the differences in holding power. Although the anchors you like are good, there are others that hold well. I agree the Delta is not reliable enough for me, in tight anchorages it drags until you pay out a lot of line. Once set it holds pretty good. Prices you did not consider?? Thanks for your article!
tbh I have really serious doubts about anything Stainless Steel in Seawater, so no anchor or chain in Stainless on my boat. IF you can get a Genuine Proper Lewmar Delta made with the Correct Steel, properly Hardened and Tempered, and Not One of the Many Counterfeits made from rubbish steel, then you have an excellent Anchor. The Oversized one on my last boat with good American Steel Triple Galvanised, got us through i e beck of a Tornado Storm, the first Tornado so powerful hitting from Starboard side so hard, the VHF antenna on top of the mast, was under water on the Port side, and the Anchor was pushed out sideways to port, breaking free, if it hadn’t given way, id have been in the harbour of Refuge swimming. After flying the anchor through the line of boats behind, into clear water, and resetting it, we got clipped by a few more Tornadoes before the Storm Passed, but the boat didn’t budge. Guaranteeing getting a Delta that good, is the only real issue imho. No problem getting a Real one to set either. Lewmar really need to sort out an easy way for people to tell that they’re getting the genuine article ? 🤔 U want another one on my next boat tbh. Best Wishes. Bob in Wales. 👍🏴🌟🌟🌟
There is real danger in thinking some brand of anchor is going to replace basic seamanship. I appreciate that you did a article on anchoring technique first, but I have been cruising for 40 years and have found that there is NO anchor that will not, in some conditions, drag. Also, and more importantly, sometimes the most important and seamanship thing to do in an anchorage is pull up your anchor and move to sea or to another part of the anchorage. At this point, having an anchor that is really heavy or buried so deep as to be difficult or impossible to remove could cost you your boat. As far as resetting goes, you need to set a Bahamian moor if you are in a place where the current could dislodge your anchor. There no anchor that can be reliably trusted to reset when rolled 180 in current. A few months ago a group of cruisers in an open roadstead went ashore when they could not get their anchors up to move out to sea. Hunkering down behind and anchor reputed to be a “new generation” anchor could cost you your boat and maybe your life. I have used a CQR for 40 years and never dragged when it was not my fault or some impossible situation. Articles like this are dangerous. Fortunately, most folks are just talking at the dock and are outfitting for cruising they will never do. But if you are going someplace, beware of “best” anchor and “next generation” claims.