Aluminum canoes are not necessarily heavy and will sink by themselves, as many plastic canoes are much heavier for the same size. The Grumman 17 Aluminum is a versatile double-ender canoe designed for tandem paddling and has a rated capacity of 805 lbs. It is built specifically for camps and can carry plenty of camping cargo.
Grumman Canoes offer an excellent balance between design, durability, and performance. They have a transom gusset made of tough.125 aluminum, motor pads to secure outboards, and ribs for added stiffness. In the early 1960s, Grumman bought a controlling interest in Pearson Yachts Company in Bristol, RI, in a bid to expand into the lucrative fiberglass boat market.
Structural fabrics like resin and fiberglass (or other structural fabrics), solid PE, and aluminum have a specific gravity greater than 1.0, unlike Royalex and three-layer roto-molded polyethylene which have foam cores. Solid polyethylene, aluminum, and composite canoes have no inherent buoyancy, but they can sink if the weight of the water exceeds the maximum weight the boat was designed to hold.
A boat can sink if it is filled with water, and if the weight of the water is enough to exceed the maximum weight the boat was designed to hold, the canoe will sink to the gunnels and even deeper. Aluminum canoes can be emptyed even in deep water if the hull is ruptured or a gunwale is broken.
In college, it was necessary to re-float swamped grumman canoes, but it is possible to empty them by shaking off the pine needles from the hull and removing cobwebs from its corners. If you need help, consider using the Aladdin boat blind to camo up your canoe.
📹 How to get BACK IN when your Canoe tips over (SOLO)
Learn how to get back in a canoe / Flip and Re-Enter if you find it takes on water or capsizes. Used in deep water when your alone …
Is it possible to sink a kayak?
Kayaks are not sink-proof. The vessel can sink depending on the type, on-boarding load, unsealed hatches, or bulkheads with no water removing system.
A kayak can sink when filled with water, particularly if you exceed the weight limit. If a kayak accumulates more water inside, it gains more weight, causing more of the vessel to submerge in the water. If you don’t drain the water out or the kayak has unsealed hatches, the weight of the hull increases, and it eventually sinks.
Every kayak has a maximum weight. To minimize the chances of water getting inside, abide by the recommended weight limit for your kayak.
Ideally, ensure you don’t exceed 75 percent of your kayak’s weight to have a safety allowance should water get in.
How stable is a Grumman canoe?
Once we slide the canoe down to the water it behaves well, and the wide bottom and full ends offer excellent stability. I can easily get aboard over the side. With the long waterline and keel the Double-Ender tracks straight and makes paddling easy; we have seen up to 3 knots without really trying. The canoe tracks straight until the wind picks up; it will start drifting to leeward when the wind abeam is more than 8 knots or so. With higher winds, trim becomes an issue.
For a solo paddler to get reasonable trim, a good option is to sit backward on the forward thwart and paddle stern first. The new bow is slightly elevated.
A single paddler can then kneel forward of the stern seat or place some form of ballast up front to lower the bow. Another trick for a solo paddler is to row the canoe stern-first from the bow seat to help get the balance closer to amidships. However, a bit of bow-up trim can be helpful to take advantage of a stern breeze. In choppy water the canoe rides dry, and in small following waves never once have we felt that the canoe was in danger of broaching. Our canoe has capsized only once, when Audrey’s father mistimed jumping aboard during a beach launch.
Do fiberglass canoes sink?
Yes… eventually. Most modern fiberglass boats less than 25 ft long have foam flotation material rated to float the vessel plus its rated load. The foam will eventually absorb water and no longer provide the desired flotation.
Can you sink a canoe?
Most modern canoes and kayaks will not sink when swamped unless they sustain severe hull damage. Even if you cannot drain your boat, you usually can hold onto it for support.
If you capsize or swamp, or if you fall overboard and can’t get back in:
- Stay with the paddlecraft if possible.
- If you made the mistake of not wearing a life jacket, find one and put it on. If you can’t put it on, hold onto it. Have your passengers do the same.
- Take a head count.
- Signal for help.
- If your paddlecraft is still floating, try to reboard or climb onto it. Get as much of your body out of the cold water as possible. You lose body heat and energy by treading water, so try to use the boat or board for support.
- If you are close to shore, hold onto the paddlecraft with one hand and use the other to sidestroke toward shore.
- If your paddlecraft sinks or floats away, don’t panic. Look for other items in the water (coolers, dry bags, paddles, etc.) to help support you.
Can a canoe capsize?
While you’re not likely to capsize your canoe—they’re built to be stable—mistakes do happen. If you flip near shore, which sometimes occurs while entering or exiting, simply drag or swim it to shallow water where you can empty it and climb back in.
While you’re not likely to capsize your canoe—they’re built to be stable—mistakes do happen. If you flip near shore, which sometimes occurs while entering or exiting, simply drag or swim it to shallow water where you can empty it and climb back in. If you capsize away from shore, it gets trickier, with several techniques that depend on the situation. Note that to safely employ any of these options, you’ll need to be dressed for immersion (according to the temperature of the water, not the air) and wearing a properly fitted PFD, as they each involve time and the ability to maneuver in the water—two things that you might not have if you paddle unprepared.
If you flip while paddling with a partner, try the Capistrano Flip. Get underneath the canoe at opposite ends, facing each other while treading water. Using strong scissors-kicks, raise one side of the canoe to break the suction and then heave the raised side up and over so the canoe flips back upright. (This can be tricky with a heavy or loaded canoe; you may need to untie or empty equipment to flip over). From there, move to the canoe’s center and rock it gently back and forth, splashing out additional water. Next, position yourselves at opposite ends of the canoe and have one person stabilize it from the water while the other climbs in, staying low and balanced. Then have the second person enter the canoe by using a scissors-kick to grab the opposite gunwale and climb in, also staying low and balanced. You can also try to both climb in simultaneously to keep the weight balanced.
If you’re coming to the aid of another canoe that has flipped, position your canoe at a right angle to the overturned canoe, with the swimmer(s) positioned at either end of your canoe to help stabilize it. Twist the overturned canoe to break the surface tension and then hoist the upside-down canoe across the gunwales of your canoe to drain it. Then slide it back into the water upright alongside your canoe, and reach over to help stabilize it as the swimmer(s) climb back in.
Are aluminum canoes better than plastic?
Durable. When it comes to durability, aluminum canoes come out on top as they’re able to withstand bumps and knocks both in and out of the water. This durability makes them perfect for paddlers who are paddling off rocks or dragging their canoe along reefs or unsmooth surfaces.
With that being said, however, the aluminum canoe material will dent, but if the damage isn’t too severe, you should be able to pound and smooth the hull back into shape.
Corrosion Resistant. One of the biggest benefits of an aluminum canoe is that aluminum is resistant to corrosion. I think it goes without saying that no one wants to spend a small fortune on a canoe, to then have to replace it in a few years. When it comes to rust resistance, however, your canoe will begin to rust if it isn’t properly galvanized so it is essential you take preventative steps to avoid irreversible damage to your canoe.
Can aluminum sink or float?
It less dense compared to the water. Now what if we take this one that has sunk to the bottom. And we crumpled it up into a ball what do you think will happen let’s try it. Out.
Is a fiberglass canoe better than aluminum?
Lightweight. Fiberglass material canoes are some of the lightest canoes on the market, making them easier to transport and carry from A to B. If you think you’ll struggle to load your canoe or carry it down to the water, then a fiberglass composite canoe will be a better option for you as they’re lighter than aluminum canoes.
Durable. Fiberglass canoes are extremely durable, and you’ll also find that other watercraft are made from the same fiberglass cloth material that makes up the canoe construction. The fiberglass canoe materials, resin, and fiberglass fibers are molded together and left to harden before being coated in a smooth gel. The gel coating is what makes fiberglass canoes durable and resistant to scrapes, scratches, and dents.
For the highest quality fiberglass canoe, ensure that the company has used expensive fiberglass cloth as opposed to chopped pieces of fiberglass as chopped fiberglass lessens the boat’s quality and durability.
Do aluminum canoes sink?
Polyethylene, Royalex, and other thermoplastic canoes float because they have a foam layer to help maintain a semblance of rigidity – to minimize oil canning. In contrast, aluminum and composite canoes need additional flotation. Large chunks of foam are installed in the ends of most aluminum canoes.
Composite canoes don’t require that much flotation since they’re lighter. Foam cores and ribs also contribute to buoyancy, but don’t add enough. The earliest Bells had chunks of black Ethafoam glued into the ends, a functional, though inelegant solution. Later Bell developed its signature curved air tanks. Those tanks appeared the ideal functional and aesthetic solution. However, the design’s weakness took years to manifest itself. Each tank required a rubber plug to accommodate fluctuations in air pressure resulting from temperature or elevation changes. Old Bells brought in for repairs frequently lacked plugs, the buoyancy of the air chambers eliminated by the plug’s absence.
Northstar arrived at our current flotation after research and development. We designed our end tanks to reduce weight, maximize space for paddlers and gear, and safely float a capsized canoe. First, we create a dam using aramid and foam. Then we fill the area behind the dam with a two part, marine grade pour foam. The foam fills all voids, so we don’t need to seal the top of the dam. Our end tanks create plenty of buoyancy for inland, flat water paddling.
Whitewater paddlers and those on salt water usually choose to install float bags for additional flotation. Air bags displace water, which means a capsized canoe floats higher in the water, making rescue easier. Additional flotation in whitewater also reduces the likelihood of the canoe getting pinned, since it floats higher over rocks. It should be noted that air bags cannot prevent water from entering a canoe, but they do minimize the amount of water that can fill it.
What is the most stable canoe?
Shorter, wider hulled canoes are typically more maneuverable and have better initial stability. Often they have flat bottoms with a harder chine which makes them perfect for small ponds and protected waters. Typically a boat with high initial stability does not have adequate secondary stability to handle anything but very flat, calm water. Canoes of this design are referred to as sporting canoes. Birding, hunting, and fishing are typical activities that can best utilize a sporting canoe. Because of their high initial stability and poor secondary stability, a sporting canoe is a poor choice for rivers and large lakes where waves, currents, wind may be present.
Most customers will look for one boat that can be paddled with ease in different environments. For example, you may want a canoe that can be paddled both tandem and solo. You also may want a boat that can handle large, open lakes and whitewater rivers. Furthermore, you may decide you want a boat that is stable enough initially to make it a good hunting and fishing canoe. Your challenge is to start asking yourself questions about what type of paddling I really want to do and where will I PRIMARILY use my canoe. Keep in mind that one canoe CANNOT do it all. Make your selection based on where you will PRIMARILY use the boat and in what capacity. Our job at Great Outdoor Provision Co. is to help you find the best canoe for your primary use and to make sure you get the best value for your purchase.?
What is the toughest canoe material?
TuffStuff. Exclusive to Nova Craft Canoes, TuffStuff is a new material developed in response to diminishing Royalex supplies. Made from composite Basalt/Innegra cloth covered in high impact-resistant vinylester resin, TuffStuff canoes are incredibly durable. Nova Craft has taken much joy in demonstrating their resilience by jumping on canoes, hitting them with a sledgehammer, and dropping one off a ten-storey roof!
Beyond strength, TuffStuff canoes offer other advantages over conventional thermoformed plastic canoes. They are much stiffer, which leads to greatly improved performance and efficiency – the easy glide motion and faster response is noticable after only a few paddle strokes. TuffStuff is also lighter than conventional plastic boats.
Fiberglass Composites. The term ‘composite’ is generally used when speaking of canoes that are built using layers of fabric cloth infused with resin such as epoxy or vinylester. They can be designed in nearly any shape imaginable, and are usually layered by hand using a mold. When left to harden and cure, the result is a stiff and lightweight canoe that is very strong.
What is the life expectancy of a fiberglass canoe?
If you care for and maintain a fiberglass boat as recommended, it can last up to 50 years or longer. This is why fiberglass is the most popular material for constructing boats and personal watercraft. It’s likely to outlast any wood or metal components on the boat. Let’s explore the typical lifespan of fiberglass boats and how you can maximize it.
Understanding Fiberglass Boats. Fiberglass is made from either polyester resin or epoxy resin, reinforced with layers of glass fiber. Fiberglass boat construction starts in a factory mole. The first layer is a gel coat, followed by a fiberglass cloth layer. Resin gets applied on each layer until it reaches the desired thickness. This results in a boat that is light enough to be buoyant. It is also very tough and harder to crack than regular glass or plastic. Also, fiberglass is more resistant to corrosion from UV rays and saltwater — making it an excellent choice for boat construction.
Average Lifespan of Fiberglass Boats. A fiberglass boat can last much longer than the pickup truck that you use to haul it to the lake! As mentioned above, we’ve seen fiberglass boats that are more than 50 years old still float as long as they receive proper maintenance. A span of 30 to 40 years is more realistic, though. You may not need the same boat for decades anyway. If your life situation changes, you might find yourself looking for a different boat in a few years.
📹 My Canoe Sinks in Middle of Lake, head-cam running. See two links below…
Around 1:28-1:32 you can see anchor rope, that if I got tangled-in could have pulled me down. I have THE RESCUE on this video: …
60 years ago when I was at summer Boy Scout camp, we practiced turning canoes over in the middle of the lake. There is a self-rescue procedure you can research if you like. Also, tie everything in. More generally, always follow the R2F (rig to flip) rule. Also you need a line on both ends. This will allow you to control the boat and swim it to shore even in high winds and current.. Last, NEVER rely on your phone and/or search and rescue to get you out of a jam. Instead, rediscover the (survival) monkey deep inside and let it have an out of cage experience.
Three thoughts: 1: you’re using your bent-shaft paddle backwards (you’ll have more power and control with the bend facing forward), 2: when soloing a tandem, consider paddling from the front sear facing backwards (it’ll level the boat more, making it less likely the wind will catch you and push you around), and 3: most importantly – be sure you’re always wearing your PFD ans have a whistle attached with easy access to get help!
I get it: Paddling into wind is hard in a canoe, or even a kayak. But, as you have survived this, you should be aware of several things that contributed to this event. 1) Looks like one of those handy-dandy “little” canoes, likely chosen for its small, easy to handle size. “nuff said there. 2) Sitting in the stern. The smaller the canoe, the more you need to be centered. However in wind… 3) When heading into the wind, reverse the boat, turn around, and paddle from the stern but into the wind, keeping the bow down and the stern high. This creates a windvane effect that will help keep the boat pointed into the wind rather than swerving back and forth. 4) When using a trolling motor, reverse it and let it pull the boat rather than push it. Results are astounding. 5) Lose the trick paddle. Those are for racing boats. Just get an otter tail and learn to paddle from one side only (J-stroke, box stroke, etc) No more noodling back and forth. Easier, better, more efficient, even in wind if you are turned around and using that electric to pull. 6) Have a couple small tools in your PDF pockets: Wire cutter or safety knife to cut the motor cables free so you can drop the motor and possibly the battery. The knife to cut yourself free from ropes. 7) When capsized, canoes are rated to float themselves – not you included. Empty the boat ASAP and hang on to it, kick your self to shore if you can. Even if you go down wind, it’s better to get to shore alive. If the boat floats, you will, too. Tie-in everything you can that floats, as you can see.
It seems you made some basic critical errors. Canoes on their own will float fully swamped. There is not reason the canoe should have sank. You could have been able to turn the canoe back over and enter the canoe and bail out the water. You should have had a self rescue procedure organized and practiced for just such an occasion. I had the same thing happen to me when I was on a lake with my son. Fortunately I had a plan in place and we had taken the time to practice self rescue for such occasions. We righted the boat and reentered it, bailed the water out, recovered out gear, and went back to fishing. Did you maybe have a battery and trolling motor attached to the boat weighing it down? If you add extra weight attached to the canoe you need to attach air bags to the canoe to compensate for the lack of floatation with the gear attached. Air bags also help to fill the open space in the canoe for open waters so not was much water can swamp the canoe. I don’t take a tone of gear for this reason and I don’t attach the gear to the canoe unless having extra floatation. Take a day and add weight and floatation and learn how much extra floatation is needed per lb of extra weight. I wouldn’t go out in open water in a canoe without knowing how to self rescue and having experience and the right gear. Sorry you had that experience. Don’t let it discourage you from buying another canoe and trying it again. It’s a skill and once developed you can virtually take your canoe anywhere.
I’m sure someone pointed this out already but you were using your bent shaft paddle backwards, making it far less effective. The water appears calm so the only reason I could see for capsize was an overload. Your canoe should have had a sticker somewhere with a total weight capacity. That weight included you and the gear. Floatation bags are a must if the canoe is not equipped with foam bulkhead blocks like the old coleman canoes were. With adequate floatation even a fully submerged canoe will not sink and can be self rescued. Before paddling solo in deep water, practice self rescue techniques. Even among the most experienced paddlers, accidents can happen. The ability to right your canoe with very little water left inside and get back in can be the difference between life and death. Please practice.
Couple things Ive learned from solo trolling motor powered canoe fishing: When adding a trolling motor to a one person canoe, always take extra care to balance the load, most people stick the battery in the stern because its easy, my guess is thats what swamped your stern eventually under thrust. Always extend the wires and put it up front. Also make sure you arent trimmed up and pushing the stern down, instead tilting the motor inward as far ahead of center as possible…to lift the stern as much as possible. Glad you were prepared with a float, hope the salvage went safely.
Glad you are ok – lucky for sure. Be careful of weight limits, amount of freeboard, wind and current can be a friend or a foe…And never, EVER, try to stand in a canoe. (To me) It looked like you were trying to stand before you capsized. I have been dumped many times over the decades…it happens, you learn more each time. I also never step in a canoe or kayak without a paddle specific PFD. I also follow the ‘if you love it, leash it’ rule…so I strap in everything, use paddle leashes on my paddle, tackle box, spare paddle, etc… Glad to read in the comments you won’t give up – I’ve been fishing out of canoes and using them in up to class 3 rapids for decades. It gets better!
This is why this happened, that trolling motor+wind+paddling increased the speed to the point the wake was curling over the stern quarters(the back sides) I know this cause I’ve put many trolling motors on kayaks and canoes. There’s a speed and wake threshold and when go over the water will curl into the boat from the back. Glad you’re ok tho. Avid kayaker and I still get humbled every time I go through any rapids or moving water. 🤙keep at it man
The lemon theory states that an accident turns from “inconvenient” to “deadly” when enough negative elements align themselves. This is a great demonstration of elements and errors that lead to the emergency:\r •\tNo lifejacket\r •\tNeglected to check for weather change through the day (wind came up “unexpectedly”)\r •\tBoat too small for the load it was carrying (car battery, electric motor, fishing gear and adult)\r •\tInsufficient knowledge of paddling skills (paddling on both sides of the canoe).\r •\tIncorrect equipment: paddle (using a single blade paddle where a kayak style paddle would have been more appropriate)\r •\tBoat line had no floater (even if the boat sinks, the victim can hold on to the float to make sure they don’t drift away from the location (and cause search and rescue more time to find them) Also helps greatly with recovery of the boat and equipment.\r •\tSitting in the wrong position for solo paddling (should have been in the forward seat facing backwards to put his own body weight farther ahead in the boat.\r •\tCanoe improperly trimmed (all the weight was at the rear or midship, nothing in the front).\r •\tNo signalling device (ie whistle, air horn, mirror, mini flare).\r •\tDecision to cross the lake in wind and waves.\r That’s a lot of lemons. The waterproof phone was likely the one factor that didn’t align with the rest of the lemons. You were one lemon away from a deadly outcome.
I am glad you shared this experience with your viewers. We can all learn from this incident. What surprised me most was that the conditions were choppy but not scary. I am considering using a trolling motor on my canoe and will add flotation and outriggers and secure the battery so the weight does not shift while in similar conditions that you experienced.
As casual as this may seem, i regard this to be something that could become life threatening very quickly. Its good that you made the decision to call search and rescue early. Even though its good practice to have a plan in place for something like this, its even better to understand how your boat behaves in different sizes of waves, and practice enough till you instinctively know what is safe and what is not safe. Thats what i do with my 14 feet canoe on the open lake. I have practiced capside scenarios but it a thing i will rather not have happen in the first place, especially if you have kids with you. Stay safe and have fun
I was on a pontoon boat that had 1 pontoon flood, we were in the middle of the lake. The next day I had a sit in kayak that flooded from a boat wake, I had a half drank gallon of water that helped me stay afloat while I swam to dry ground.. lol I was more scared for myself after I was safe, I didn’t even comprehend the danger I was actually in, always wear a life jacket on open water or rivers.
If water is rough A double end paddle (with blades set in same plane) might help you get better stability. Kneel low in the boat. Looks like you were to high. In the boat for the conditions. Kneel more towards the middle of canoe where it is wider. Have a bailer tied to the boat and emediatly get back in the boat and start bailing. Boat could have had more flotation.
I did this this when I was 18, 300m from shore in the middle of a small lake. My friend tipped us and then took off swimming laughing while I dragged the canoe back to shore. Luckily I had my PFD on but I still breathed in more water than I would have liked trying to get to shore with a partially submerged canoe. I could barely stay afloat but I wasn’t letting a borrowed canoe sink because my dumb thought he could stand while we were hitting jet ski wakes.
Pressed like to help you share. sorry for your canoe seems you’re fine, thanks god. Didn’t know canoe can sink like that. I thought they do float. I guess there is no point practicing those “self rescue/get back in a canoe” drills…. I’ll take a whistle with me attached to life jacket for sure! is it possible to use one of those fishing sonar things and scuba divers to retrieve canoe maybe?
So many I’ll prepared forsight for this man. The gear was a mess onboard. When on water, one should expect the worst and make sure all gear is ready for the drink. I’m glad guy was ok, but you’ll be more pre-pared situationally next time. Was phone in dry bag and survival gear to go with you to shore? Always should be, fishing is fun, but surviving is key.
It looks like you was sitting in the rear seat of the canoe as the bow was raised high out of the water making the canoe exceptionally unstable. Also you have a huge amount of stuff in the canoe that should have been stored properly in the bow of the canoe to keep the canoe level. You were lucky to make shore…it could easily have been your last trip.
I Use Spring Creek 45 in outriggers and a 35lbs 4hp 4stroke outboard,and when I’m out there like that I steer with My motor On My 15ft Old Town Way too much unbalanced weight, Go with a Gas Powered 4hp outboard and get yourself some damn outriggers. Why were You using your paddle but didn’t want to keep your hand on the motor to steer??? The water was so calm, was it your 1st time? Seriously bro you were paddling when the motor was moving You through the water at a good speed but u kept padding ( the paddling wasn’t making You go any faster at all, the point of a motor is that U don’t have to paddle which frees Your hand to steer/ guide your boat, maybe U should take up golf
Always check your freeboard before putting in. If you have to swim in active water, try to do it at a 90 degree angle parallel to shore instead of swimming straight across. Unless you’re in Class III+ rapids, it will actually take you less time to reach shore this way. If you lose the boat, so be it. You can get another one, but you can’t get another you.
Troller was too powerful. Choppy Water. Little overloaded. Windy day. All above are big no no for Canoeing. I would not have taken out my 14ft Aluminum boat in that weather let alone a Canoe even though my canoe is 16ft long, 700 lbs capacity BUT with only a 35 lbs Troller motor. Sometimes it is a good idea to keep the max limit a little low. Good, you’re safe.
should have a waterproof PLB for this exact reason – if your flip phone got submerged too & didn’t work you would have to hope someone came across you. I plan on kayaking & getting an EPIRB – even if it’s overkill; better to have it & not need it then need it & not have it. Or at least a flare gun in a waterproof + buoyant case.
Similar thing happend to me here in Florida. My buddy loaded up some kayaks and we launched them. I assumed he put the drain plugs in. He did not lol. Well atleast in mine he did not. So im paddling and paddling. I paddled for awhile and noticed the kayak was sluggish. When all of a sudden the back end goes under and the front was sticking almost straight up. I moved to the front of the yak and managed to paddle to shallower water where I could stand. Like an idiot I didnt have my life jacket. I was lucky for that sand bar. My buddy paddled towards me and between him and a few others we were able to incline the yak and drain it of its water. With the help of a jetskier we were able to get back to shore with all the equipment minus 1 water damaged phone. I always have my jacket on now. If it wasn’t for the sandbar and my buddy I wouldn’t have made it. I was so spent from paddling that heavy water logged kayak that my body stiffend and I was going down.
First of all. You said twice, “God, help me!” And he did! Awesome! I personally have been in a situation where I lost a close friend on Lake huron, and where I see rescue, I am always very glad things ended well. I have a few rules for my team while in the BWCA. 1. Never leave shore without your life jacket on. 2. Always have the canoe balanced. 3. Be aware of the weather and respect it. Even when everything is done, “right” things can go wrong. Always have a plan. Glad you are ok!
How much do you weigh? Total weight of gears and person not well distributed. It looked like your boat exceeded the max capacity. I thought for a moment there, you were running away from you wife ASAP…..LOL!….. The front keel was probably lifting above the water, while in motion. Uneven waves on the bow from the left might have made it worse, especially a few seconds RIGHT AFTER you stopped rowing, and then (made worst) you might have shifted YOUR weight to the RIGHT side, as if you were reaching for something (beer or water)….very thirsty by now. Body weight, while sitting or standing (higher center of gravity) almost always becomes the critical balancer (keep it in the middle. do not lean to the left or right). Forward motion while rowing helps mitigate the bad effects of imbalance. That is better to hit the incoming waves in front than on the sides. That is how the big crabbing boats survive the 20 foot waves in the Bering sea, hitting them head-on. If you had an outrigger attached, you might have been ok.